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From representing love, commitment, and social status across different cultures and historical periods, the concept and design of rings has evolved and developed over thousands of years.
The Romans placed such importance on their rings that it was not simply goldsmiths making them, but Anularii; individuals specialising in rings, and rings alone. The finest pieces were chiefly made from high carat gold and featured intricately carved intaglios set within raised gold borders allowing the ring to be used as a seal.
By the medieval period, precious gemstones were slowly trickling into Europe, and rings during this era would have been reserved solely for clergymen and those of very high social standing. The gems would often be set in their rough form, and typically in closed back pie-dish and quatrefoil setting.
Open backs were first seen during the mid to late Victorian period: and are also referred to as setting gems ‘À jour’, or “to the day”. This setting allowed more light to enter the gem and in turn enhanced the scintillation making the gems appear even more lively.
Different countries also pioneered their own settings; France created the illusion setting, by placing an undulating collet around the base of a diamond drawing your eye out, giving the appearance of a more prominent diamond. Meanwhile, in Great Britain, the intricate yellow gold carved hoop was a style firmly rooted in the Victorian period.
The attention to detail, and the idea that each ring was a work of art is evident in antique pieces. Parts of an antique ring not seen by anyone other than the wearer will still exhibit a level of craftsmanship unimaginable today. The carved and hand -engraved details of the Victorian and Edwardian period, as well as the elegance of the structured open galleries of the Art Deco period are an integral part of a ring’s charm.
The way in which a jeweller would incorporate the shoulders of a piece into the ring would be done with consideration and care, often with symbolic meanings. Tri-split shoulders were thought to represent the past, present and future and small decorative details such as fleur de lis motifs and the inclusion of intricate cheniers was another way for jewellers to demonstrate their superior level of artistry.
A strong indicator of a well-made antique is to look at the rear of the piece. While not immediately obvious, neat and intricate back holing would be a pain-staking exercise as each part would have to be hand pierced to the exact measurements of the featured gemstones.
In a world of machine-made jewellery and laser-cut stones, the level of finesse and care found in antique jewellery is of stark contrast. At Berganza, we have an extensive collection of early, antique and vintage rings which provides a beautiful glimpse into the history of rings and the skills of a bygone era.
