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Ancient Rome, one of the greatest civilisations to have existed; from gladiators fights at the Colosseum and plays and poetry from great writers and orators, to the actions of emperors, and the ideas of philosophers. 2000 years on since its heyday it is impossible to understate Roman influence on cultures across the centuries.
Design Periods
From a Republic to an Empire
Prior to Imperial Rome being established, between 510 BC and 27 BC Rome existed as a republic. With government elected officials and detailed laws, it is said that this system was the basis for modern democracies.
This era was dominated by warfare, most famously a series of conflicts spanning over a century from 264-146 BC. Known as the Punic Wars, these were fought between the Roman Republic and the Carthaginians. Eventually war ended in favour of the Romans, when following a seven-year siege of the city Carthage, they burnt it to the ground. Rome often extended citizenship to people in the areas it conquered, thus allowing for the expansion of their empire.
Many roads were built in this era, and the first currency was minted, ensuring ease of trade. The Roman Empire was established in 27 BC following decades of war which eventually saw Octavian become the first emperor and take the name ‘Augustus’.
Jewellery in the Roman Republic
Jewellery showed a high degree of influence from the Etruscans especially with regards to gold working techniques, such as granulation. We also still see the Hellenistic influence within Roman jewellery as many Greek goldsmiths moved to Rome, attracted by the wealth of the city, allowing for a continuation of Greek motifs. In particular, the serpent motif is seen throughout this era and its use as an amulet is arguably why it continued to be popular after the decline of the Hellenistic world.
The last two centuries of this era saw more abstract shapes, with a combination of gold and precious stones used. Thus came about a more assured and distinct, ‘Roman’ style which was comparatively more simple and elegant than the Greek.
The production of jewellery was quickly specialised, with rings being made not by a goldsmith, but by an anularius. The first rings created early on in the Republic were made of iron, and functioned as seals. The right to wear gold rings, known as ‘jus annuli aurei,’ was at first given only to senators, and only then while serving as ambassadors of the Republic. However, over time, the right to wear gold rings was awarded to all civilians who could afford them.
Other forms of jewellery were also worn, including bracelets and necklaces, and there was more focus on emphasising the beauty of the materials, rather than having the design dictated by a particular motif.
The Roman Empire: 27BC – 476 AD
The Roman Empire dramatically shifted power away from representative democracy to centralised imperial power, held by an Emperor. The first ‘crowned’ emperor was Octavian, who took the name ‘Augustus.’
Jewellery in the Roman Empire
The Hellenistic style was initially popular in the early years of the Roman Empire, and much inspiration was also taken from other great civilisations, including the Egyptians. In turn, Roman jewellery later influenced many other cultures, as these pieces were dispersed throughout the Empire.
As Roman jewellery was made chiefly out of gold, many decorative processes were available to the goldsmith. Some of the most era defining processes were filigree and granulation work. These closely related processes were used for decorating gold jewellery by the application of wires and grains of gold.
One of our largest sources of knowledge of 1st century AD Roman jewellery is in Herculaneum and Pompeii, where much jewellery was buried in the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. In this jewellery there is evidence of many abstract designs.
What Materials Were Used?
Amethyst, emerald and pearl were popular gemstones for the Romans, and diamonds also began to appear in jewellery. Along with precious gems, glassmakers were highly skilled and produced glass for jewellery that resembled gemstones. Emeralds from Egypt were left in their natural hexagonal crystal form and other gems, such as carnelian and garnet were featured in vintage intaglio rings. Eventually, the working of gemstones surpassed the importance of goldworking, which is reflected in later pieces.
Jewellery was made from gold, silver and bronze, and thus was available to all societal classes in one form or another.
Types of Jewellery
Rings
Ancient roman rings continued to be made by anularii, who only made finger rings due to the highly specialised nature of metalworking in this period. Rings were seen as a status symbol and were only worn by certain social groups, however within these groups, they were worn by men, women, and children. Whilst rings worn by men had a function, women wore rings purely as decoration. These rings were often set with gemstones such as agate, carnelian and garnet.
Gemstone engraving for seal rings was a very important art form in the Roman era, and due to the hardness of the gemstones it was something only the most skilled and specialist craftsmen could achieve. The designs would take months to be cut into the stone using abrasive powder ground from an even harder gem material. The complexity of the image was important in ensuring the seal could not be copied and used without the owner’s permission. Whilst intaglios were often used as seals, they were also worn for their decorative value. Popular choices for seals include mythological scenes and figures.
Earrings
Earrings during this era were often hollow, so they could be both ornate and comfortable. Gold earrings could be decorated with colourful glass beads and patterns would be made in sheet gold and cut out using a chisel.
There are references which allude to how women’s ears became distorted as a result of their love for earrings, and Pliny, the Natural Historian said that women spent more on their ears than on any other part of their bodies. Despite their abundance at the time, It is rare to find a matching set of ancient earrings in wearable condition today.
The Roman Empire fell in 476 AD, but its influence is still felt. Considering the scale of the Empire, jewellery finds are relatively rare, but these pieces of history can still be worn and enjoyed today.
Roman Jewellery at Berganza
Art and architecture, politics and religion, are just some of the aspects mirrored in the jewellery from ancient Rome. Many pieces survive and can be seen in both museums and private collections, with an unimaginable number of jewels surely still waiting to be unearthed to offer further insight into this era and its decorative arts.
Our collection of ancient Roman jewellery showcases the high level of craftsmanship from the era with many techniques on display in all their original glory. From gold filigree earrings, perfect as a gift for special occasions, to our wide array of intaglio rings you need look no further when choosing to invest in a piece of history. Sought after by both collectors and investors, visit Berganza today, or view our entire collection of Ancient Roman Jewels online.
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