Knowledge
Turquoise has been a beloved gem for thousands of years. Its distinctive blue hue can be seen decorating jewellery for millennia and is one of the most popular and wearable gemstones today.
Gemstones
What’s in a Name?
Known by many names, Pliny the Elder referred to Turquoise as ‘callais’ (from the Ancient Greek κάλαϊς) and the Aztecs knew it as ‘chalchihuitl'. The word ‘Turquoise’ itself only dates back to the 17th century. Originally derived from the French, ‘pierre turquoise’, meaning ‘Turkish stone’, it was so named because Venetian merchants often purchased the stone in Turkish bazaars, and the trade routes that brought Turquoise to Europe passed through Turkey on the way from the mines in central Asia.
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History and Lore
The use of turquoise in jewellery dates as far back as the First Dynasty of Ancient Egypt. We know that turquoise was mined in the Sinai Peninsula as early as 3000 BC, and the geographical areas of present-day Iran and Afghanistan were also major ancient sources, mined some 2000 years ago.
Throughout Egypt, turquoise was set into gold jewellery, embellishing rings and necklaces, and often carved to depict animals and gods. Possession of the stone was thought to bring good fortune and general well-being to the wearer. It was considered so precious that it was used in burial masks, for example that of Tutankhamun. Turquoise was also very popular throughout the Persian Empire, where people believed it held protective powers.
Turquoise was also important to the peoples surrounding another major world source, the central region of the Americas, where it was considered holy by the Aztecs, Incas, and later, the Pueblo civilisations. The Aztecs would use it to make mosaics, often worked into masks and turquoise beads and other jewels were handcrafted and worn by the Pueblos.In the 11th and 12th centuries turquoise made its first appearance in Europe during the Crusades. It was used throughout the Middle Ages as a talisman and its use continued through to the 17th century. In the 19th century it became highly popular in European jewellery, indeed Queen Victoria was a fan of this beautiful gemstone, which spurred on its use in jewellery during this era.
As a result of the Romantic movement, and the sentimental concept of the Language of Flowers, the gem became a symbol of true love, remembrance and faithfulness by association with forget-me-nots, a flower of the same colour. Iit was for this reason that Queen Victoria gave her bridal party gifts of turquoise brooches.
Turquoise can be seen decorating jewellery throughout the twentieth century, often in combination with diamonds and yellow gold and is today known for being the birthstone for December.
The Physical Properties of Turquoise
Turquoise is a copper aluminium phosphate - copper being the primary cause of its pleasing blue colour. It has a microscopic crystal structure, which makes it ideal to be fashioned into smooth cabochons rather than faceted.
An opaque gem, it is often formed in what is called matrix, a black or brown veining derived from the host rock in which the gem forms. In fine jewellery, unblemished sky blue turquoise is the most desirable, although regularly patterned matrix turquoise is also sought-after.
The highly saturated blue hue is how the colour itself is now defined, though it can also be found with hints of green or grey.
Dating back to Medieval times, our turquoise collection features pieces from across the eras. From turquoise rings to Victorian turquoise earrings and gold turquoise necklaces in an array of designs, however you choose to wear this gem, you are sure to find the perfect jewel for you!
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Aquamarines
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Pearls
Opal
Citrine
Turquoise is often paired with yellow gold, which brings out the warmth of the stone, however when set in silver, it gives an icy yet elegant aesthetic, perfect for the birthstone of December!
As it is a porous stone, the best way to clean your antique jewellery that features turquoise is to use a soft dry cloth to wipe the surface without submerging it in water.
Turquoise is softer than a lot of gemstones, measuring a 5-6 on the Mohs scale, so will require some care when being worn.
