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The Belle Époque era stretched from 1871 with the end of the Franco-Prussian war to 1914 and the outbreak of World War I. ‘The Belle Époque’, french for ‘Beautiful Era’ was so named in retrospect when it began to be considered a golden age of history, characterised by optimism, economic prosperity (with the industrial output of France tripling during this time) and significant cultural, technological and scientific innovations.
Design Periods
The Inspiration Behind Belle Époque
In a move away from the expected aesthetic of Victorian jeweller, Belle Époque designs were lighter and took inspiration from the delicate French rococo imagery of the late 18th century. This increased sophistication in the creation of jewels was made possible by the widespread use of platinum, which replaced heavier silver settings, meaning that stones were able to be held in thinner, more delicate mounts. Therefore, jewellers could create intricate details that were previously not possible.
Inspired by motifs popular during the rule of Louis XIV, this new trend came to be known as the ‘Garland Style’ and was characterised by garlands, wreaths, lace, bows, tassels, ribbons and swags. Favourite subjects included nature in all its forms, particularly the soft and flowing lines of female figures, weaving plant stems, flowers, insects, snakes and animals. There was a focus on nature and these jewels were often associated with femininity and fertility.
Types of Jewels
Appearing as lavish necklaces, tiaras, brooches, rings and pendants, it was a time of elegance and opulence. Jewels were sensuous, highly decorative and were designed to enhance feminine beauty. Ladies dressed for evening in beautiful lightweight material of chiffon or satin, which were adorned with elaborate lace and beadwork. These high-waisted, less-fitted gowns with low necklines, short sleeves and long-gloved arms perfectly showcased the jewels of this era.
Necklaces
Necklines would often display a natural pearl choker or multiple strands of pearls. Sautoirs of seed pearls were particularly popular as were negligee pendants. This was a form of necklace that came into fashion in the 1900s and consisted of fine links with two drop pendants suspended parallel to one another at different lengths.
Earrings
Long hair would be worn up and ornamented with feathers and jewels, allowing earrings to be prominently displayed. These showcased popular motifs in both girandole form, and articulated pendant drops. Pearl and diamond stud earrings were worn, as were floral cluster earrings featuring both diamonds and other coloured gem
Brooches
Brooches were seen in a myriad of forms, from bars to more elaborate shapes with delicate framework and metalworking techniques highlighting the beauty of the gemstones.
Rings
Ladies adorned themselves with a number of rings, which highlighted techniques such as millegrain and engraving, designed to enhance and embellish delicate and often understated designs. Pretty designs such as target rings and clusters were popular, often crafted with platinum settings to produce the light yet intricate look that was coveted.
£22,500
£8,800
£24,500
£16,500
£5,550
£15,000
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£8,100
£19,800
Gems in Belle Époque Jewellery
Many renowned jewellers of the era were using diamonds of a superior quality than previously, with fine quality gemstones from Burma, Kashmir, Ceylon and Colombia all decorating these pieces, yet no gem was as perfect an accompaniment as the pearl. With its elegant tones of cream, pink and gold, its beautiful lustre contrasted wonderfully against the diamonds and could be found in a variety of shapes, including baroque pearls, those in a teardrop form, and boutons.
Aside from diamonds and natural pearls, jewellers’ creations were adorned with rubies and fancy coloured diamonds in yellow and pink. Fanciful designs in aquamarine, topaz and demantoid garnet were also popular.
Belle Époque at Berganza
Our collection at Berganza showcases the innovation and romance seen in this beautiful era, with ingenuity and skill seen in the craftsmanship of every piece. From pearl engagement rings to diamond pendants, whatever the occasion you are sure to find the perfect piece. Visit our showroom in Hatton Garden or view all of our Belle Epoque pieces on our website.
Victorian
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Edwardian
Georgian
Art Deco
