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In 1901, Edward VII became king and hailed in the new Edwardian age. The turn of the twentieth century brought with it many innovations and discoveries. Plastic is invented, Einstein discovered relativity and Madame Curie discovered (to her cost) radioactivity. The British Empire spanned the globe, from Canada and Australia to India and parts of Africa.
Design Periods
It was an exciting time in jewellery manufacturing and design. Platinum became the metal of choice for the new diamonds mined from South Africa, there was enormous wealth and the jewellery was made to match. It was a time of whimsical extravagance in jewellery and as societal rules became more relaxed compared to the rigidity of the Victorian era, it was the perfect time for jewellery to reflect this lightness.
Following King Edward’s death in 1910, his legacy lived on with this tasteful yet luxurious approach to jewellery design, which prevailed in Britain until the onset of World War One.
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The ‘Pretty Period’ of Jewellery
Edwardian jewellery can be identified by its light and decorative nature, with ‘pretty’ motifs coming to the fore. Floral cluster rings, finely engraved bands and elegant drop pendants are just some of the types of pieces which were coveted. There were however two main styles which really came to epitomise the Edwardian era: the garland style, and platinum lace.
The Garland Style
A new trend began, one that was to reflect the less ornate and lighter styles of the new era, made possible by the widespread use of the stronger metal being used, platinum. Platinum could safely hold stones in thinner, more delicate and decorative mounts, which led to the garland style, characterised by motifs such as garlands, bows, tassels, ribbons and lace.
The garland was such a ubiquitous motif that the Edwardian era is often referred to as 'The Garland Era'. This style was adopted by all the major jewellers of the day, predominantly Cartier.
The luxuriousness of these beautifully handcrafted pieces can be seen in the simplicity of a diamond solitaire ring or a dazzling tiara, which was the ultimate status symbol. Everything was fashioned with the utmost class, creating a tasteful, yet bold and interesting look.
Platinum Lace
Much of Edwardian jewellery was created to complement the white silk and lace being worn by affluent and stylish ladies. The strength of platinum allowed master jewellers to create delicate designs that had a lace-like appearance. These pieces were airy and delicate and featured exquisite openwork. Combined with the silvery tones of diamonds and pearls, this created a new whimsical look that was highly sought after.
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Inspiration Abounds
For jewellers in the Edwardian age, there was seemingly no end to what was used for inspiration; art, architecture, fashion, even ballet. Leading jewellers began to copy the fashion for Chinese and Indian influences, which were used with great success by Fabergé, Boucheron, Tiffany, Chaumet and Lacloche. All styles from Ancient Greek, Classical Roman, French Baroque and Rococo, Napoleonic and Second Empire styles were used.
Scrolls, feathers, tassels, swags of foliage, garlands of flowers, ribbon ties in flowing bow knots, triumphal laurel wreaths and the classic Greek Key design were all recreated with subtlety and taste.
The Materials of Edwardian Jewels
One of the most important materials used in jewellery from this era was platinum itself, which allowed for the creation of new and different types of style. Yellow gold was also still a popular choice and many pieces feature the two metals in harmony, often with platinum settings for gemstones and yellow gold bands/fittings.
Coloured gemstones, plentiful and often used as accents for diamonds, arrived from all over the world. Demantoid garnet, pink topaz, amethyst, sapphire, peridot, ruby, emerald, turquoise, and tourmaline rained down on England from every point on the globe.The sudden influx of diamonds from the South African mines facilitated the introduction of spectacular new cuts like the marquise, baguette, kite, triangle and briolette.
Pearls, once rare, came pouring in from the Persian Gulf, Australia, Ceylon, the Mississippi Valley and even Scotland, while the rarely seen black pearls appeared from Tahiti and Panama.
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Types of Jewellery
There were seemingly no limits to the array of jewellery that blossomed during this period, and designers took it upon themselves to create ever more tantalising designs, which extended past the realm of jewellery and into gifts. Elaborate hairstyles became home to jewelled combs and crescent brooches. Fringe necklaces, rivières, chokers worn with ropes of pearl, sautoirs of seed pearls and jewelled tassels, lavaliere suspended from chains and guilloché-enamelled discs all decorated the long necks of the ladies at court.
Brooches were worn in number from the shoulder to the waist and accentuated the lacy gauze of the feminine bodice. Drop earrings were all the rage, dripping with pearls and diamonds in the ubiquitous garland style. Enamelled and jewelled buckles decorated wide belts both front and back.
Edward VII was a fashionable dresser, and established an interest in fashion which was avidly followed by his subjects. Cufflinks composed of coloured stones like aquamarine, topaz, garnet, quartz and amethyst were common, their colours often matched to the shirt of choice. Multiple rings were worn at any one time, with gypsy rings featuring diamonds, rubies and sapphires being popular for men. More unusual signet rings were carved in carnelian, bloodstone and chalcedony.
The Edwardians also indulged their lavish tastes with gift giving. Hand-engraved cigarette cases done in silver, gold, and guilloché enamel were inset with rose-cut diamonds and other coloured gemstones. Cigarette cases, scent bottles and clocks were just some of the everyday items that were being adorned with jewels and carvings to create a decadence in all areas of material culture.
Edwardian Jewellery at Berganza
The Edwardian style has continued to inspire design and attract people over one hundred years on. If you would like to have your own unique piece of Edwardian elegance, here at Berganza we have a vast collection of beautiful and original to the era pieces.
Dazzling Edwardian diamond rings that epitomise the age with lovingly crafted details would make a wonderful engagement ring, or choose from the abundance of coloured gemstones that journeyed across the globe to be set into these exquisite pieces.
As was popular in the era itself, gift a jewel. Luxurious pendants, exquisite bracelets, dazzling brooches, there is no end to the beauty you can immerse yourself in!
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