Renaissance jewellery
The Renaissance was a period during the 15th and 16th centuries which saw a renewed interest in classical values and themes, and this was what influenced jewellery during this time. Mythological subjects were introduced as subjects in jewellery, as well as biblical ones. These influences were first seen in Italy, and by the 16th century had travelled north, replacing the previous Gothic style. Printed jewellery designs were disseminated widely across Europe at this time, and the marriages of noble Italian women into European royal and noble houses all led to a blended style across the continent.
Whilst a lot of jewellery from the Renaissance has not survived to today, the many portraits and paintings that were created at the time give us an insight into the jewellery that was worn in this era. Indeed, many of the great artists of the Renaissance started off as goldsmiths, and this may be one reason why jewellery is so well depicted in art.
In the Renaissance period, the newly wealthy selected and searched for the finest materials and superior craftsmanship for their jewellery. This was known as the period in which ‘taste’ collecting, connoisseurship and the collecting of luxury property was birthed. Jewellery was not only a way of showing one’s status in society, but also acted as a form of portable wealth.
Diamonds, as well as sapphires, rubies and emeralds were all popular during this time, and the 16th century saw a great influx of gemstones into Europe as Vasco Da Gama discovered a direct sea route to India, between 1497-1499. Gems from India were traded by European merchants, with Lisbon replacing Venice as the main trading hub, and Antwerp becoming the foremost area for diamond cutting, overtaking Bruges. Barcelona was also an important city for gems, as the Spanish established emerald mines in Colombia, and the Portuguese occupied Sri Lanka.
Goldsmiths transformed the simple designs of Medieval rings into the triumph of Renaissance Art. Designs included ornate cartouches and motifs, classical elements and elaborate bright enamels. Jewellery was more decorative and sumptuous than ever before.
Rings were worn by both men and women, and could be worn on all fingers. These were made of gold or silver and were often set with precious stones.
Posy rings, gem set rings, and gimmel rings were extremely fashionable for wedding rings in this period. For those who could afford them, diamond rings were the first choice as the durable hardness of the gemstone symbolised unbreakable love. Rings featuring a diamond from this period often have inscriptions which were hidden and denoted faith, love, and fidelity.
Gemellus translated from Latin as twin or gimmel rings are a version of Fede rings used during this era. They were often exchanged during wedding ceremonies and were decorated with hearts and clasped hands representing the agreement of marriage between the two families. Posy rings were a popular choice for betrothals in the Renaissance time, with romantic poems inscribed inside the band.
However, the most important piece of jewellery was the pendant. These were often encrusted with precious gems and showcasing fine enamel work to the front and back. Pendants were often worn on a long gold chain and could even be fixed directly to a dress. The art of cameo cutting came back into fashion, and these can be seen on pendants, as could portraits painted in enamel. Other popular subjects including mythological and biblical themes.
Earrings had fallen out of fashion during the Medieval era, but these made a comeback, with ladies wearing pearl and other jewels in drop styles.
By the early 17th century, the Renaissance era had come to a close, but the decadent jewellery created during this time provided infinite inspiration in centuries to come, by way of a Renaissance revival in the 19th century. However, to find original Renaissance jewellery today is a true rarity, as few have survived.
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