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Knowledge
The Renaissance, meaning re-birth, was a period of rapid development that emerged in Europe between the 14th and 17th centuries. This transformative era followed a period of cultural stagnation as a new humanist spirit and subsequent renaissance spread north from its birthplace in Italy to bring advancements not only in art, but also in technology, science, knowledge, and politics, laying the foundation for the modern world.
Design Periods
The Influence of Classical Antiquity
The rediscovery of the ancient civilisations of Greece and Rome inspired an interest in Classical learning, challenging medieval beliefs. By the mid-15th century, art styles in Italy began to shift in line with these classical ideals and artists—funded by wealthy Italian noble families—developed new skills and styles that were deeply influenced by these ancient worlds.
Jewellery itself was not directly influenced by ancient jewellery designs, as few pieces were known to have survived, instead it was classical and mythological themes from ancient that made their way into Renaissance jewels. The new desire for classical revival spread northward from Italy during the 16th century, gradually replacing the Gothic style that had previously dominated. Rather than copying specific techniques, the focus was on the broader aesthetic and themes found in ancient sculptures. Although one technique that did make a comeback was the ancient art of gem engraving, which helped bring mythological figures and scenes to life in miniature.
Jewellery and Art
Renaissance jewellery is renownedly ornate and grand in style, and portraiture allows us to form an unprecedented insight into the jewellery that was produced during this period, as there are so few surviving pieces which can be studied. Many great artists of the Renaissance started off their careers in goldsmith workshops to learn about accuracy, which allowed a close relationship between painters/sculptors and goldsmiths to form. This likely explains the excellent depiction of jewellery in Renaissance portraits.
Cultural Exchange
During this era countries were increasingly connected through newly established trade routes, facilitating the exchange of culture, religion, and technology. These trade networks allowed Europe to gain access to previously rare raw materials and gemstones from distant parts of the world. Artists and jewellers would then use these gems in exquisite jewellery, marking the period’s dedication to beauty and craftsmanship.
As Renaissance art and design spread across Europe, the influence of Italian styles began to blend with existing traditions in other countries. Society changed and marriages of noble Italian women into European royal and noble families further helped merge different styles.
The Renaissance Goldsmith
Renaissance goldsmiths were highly innovative, and masters of advanced techniques such as embossing, enamelling, engraving, and filigree decoration with artisans drawing inspiration from ancient traditions to create stunning pieces for wealthy clients. Notable goldsmiths from the period included Lorenzo Ghiberti, Sandro Botticelli, Antonio Pollaiuolo, Luca Della Robbia, and Andrea Del Verrocchio.
Thanks to Benvenuto Cellini‘s, ‘The Treatises of Benvenuto Cellini on Goldsmithing and Sculpture’ we have a comprehensive understanding of the techniques used by goldsmiths. Reading his treatise is highly recommended for those who wish to understand goldsmithing in the 16th century as it covers the art of niello, filigree work, enamelling, stone setting, foiling, diamond cutting, casting, gilding and many other aspects of the goldsmith’s trade.
Goldsmiths could become masters of certain techniques within their trade and specialism became a virtue, with many artisans often collaborating on a single piece. A jewellery item might be drawn by a painter, created by one goldsmith, engraved by another, and set with gemstones by yet another craftsman. This division of labour makes it difficult to attribute jewellery to a single artist.
Gemstones and Materials of the Renaissance
During the Renaissance, the newly wealthy sought the finest materials and craftsmanship for their jewellery, marking the birth of ‘taste’ collecting and connoisseurship. Jewellery not only displayed social status but also acted as portable wealth. The European nobility found itself in need of vast sums of money to fund their numerous wars, and gemstones such as diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds were all used for this purpose.
The 16th century saw an influx of gemstones into Europe after Vasco Da Gama discovered a sea route to India (1497-1499), enabling European merchants to trade gems, as they had access to obtain them directly from their source. In particular, Burmese rubies were highly prized because of their supreme colour and pearls, mainly obtained from the Persian Gulf, were a popular choice.
Certain gemstones were thought to hold special properties, or to protect against specific ailments or threats, even toothache! Other gems were worn to encourage or banish characteristics such as bravery or melancholy.
The most commonly seen cut during the Renaissance era was the table cut, which first emerged in the 14th century, evolving from the earlier point cut. Table cut diamonds and gemstones were often set into Medieval and Renaissance jewels, but today are extremely rare to come across in their original form as most table cuts were subsequently unset and re-cut, once technology advanced over the following centuries. This renders any such jewel a remarkable survival.
Renaissance jewellery didn’t just incorporate colour through gemstones but also through the art of enamelling, which allowed for wonderfully decorative settings. Enamel often covered both sides of pieces, and became increasingly intricate and colourful. Those pieces which survive today with any remaining enamel intact are an incredibly rare find and display the full glory of Renaissance design.
Types of Jewellery
Pendants
The pendant was the most important jewellery item of the Renaissance. They were worn on a long gold chain or could be fixed to the dress, and were often designed to be admired from both sides with enamelled backs and lavish jewel-encrusted fronts. Devotional pendants depicting Biblical scenes or the sacred monogram IHS were common, as were pendants featuring bejewelled initials of the wearer and loved ones, though few have survived as they were often destroyed after the wearer’s death.
Other prevalent pendant designs of the age included enamel-painted portraits, cameos, and motifs such as arabesques, fruit, foliage, and mythological creatures such as nymphs, satyrs, and dragons. Jewellery inspired by sea-faring stories, with ships and sea monsters, also became fashionable.
Rings
Rings were worn on all five fingers, sometimes across multiple joints and were more ornamented than ever before. Both men and women wore rings made of gold or silver which were often set with precious gemstones to be both decorative, and to showcase one’s wealth and status.
Other rings had more functional purposes. Hidden compartments under the bezels of rings sometimes contained scented materials to mask unpleasant odors due to poor hygiene. Rings with compasses, sundials, and later clocks were common, indeed portable timepieces, developed around 1500, were incorporated not just into rings but also pomanders and pendants.
Earrings
Earrings made a comeback during this time with pearls or jewelled drops suspended from the ear or tied around it. Earrings could also feature single jewelled letters, blackamoors, or fantasy sea creatures, but by the early 17th century, earrings had become more geometric and increased in length.
Jewelled Ornamentation
Dress jewellery became more widespread, with gems and gold adorning not only the edges but the entire bodice of dresses. Aiguillettes, clasps, trinkets, and clusters of pearls or stones can regularly be seen adorning the dresses of European nobility.
The aigrette, a head ornament, also became fashionable, as did the ferronnière, a subtle headpiece holding a single gem which was popular in the early Renaissance and later revived in the Victorian era. These were eventually replaced by coiffures adorned with strands of pearls and jewels, and single gems and small clusters hanging from a thin thread gave way to solid chains.
Renaissance Jewellery at Berganza
By the early 17th century, the Renaissance era had ended, but the decadent jewellery created during this time provided infinite inspiration in centuries to come, with the Renaissance revival of the 19th century. However, to find original Renaissance jewellery today is a true rarity, as few have survived.
Visit Berganza to view our selection of lavish jewels from this fascinating era, with our entire collection available online, or by appointment in our showroom.
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