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Knowledge
Based along the Nile River, and spanning over 3000 years, ancient Egypt was one of the greatest and most powerful civilisations to have existed.
Design Periods
In Ancient Egyptian society, jewellery was an important part of their culture, with even the lowest classes wearing pieces made from copper, beads and imitation gemstones. Gold jewellery, such as necklaces and collars were worn by the wealthiest of Egyptians and these were often given as gifts from the Pharaoh to his loyal subjects. However, the richest and most decorative jewellery was worn by women with royal associations.
All jewellery, regardless of its quality, or the status of its owner, was decorative, whilst also having amuletic properties. Burial sites of poorer people have unearthed pieces such as simple necklaces, showing that self-adornment and shielding from mishap occurred in all layers of society. Jewellery was even created specifically for the dead, and burial purposes.
Old Kingdom Jewellery: 2630 BC - 2181 BC
Jewellery in the Old Kingdom was crafted from electrum and silver, which was prized more highly than gold due to its rarity.
Turquoise was valued highly, and mining did occur, but many mines were depleted, and despite its known popularity in ancient Egypt, at this point, turquoise was a rare occurrence. Prized for its colour, which represented fertility and vegetation, rebirth, and the sun, this turquoise colour was often seen in imitation in the form of glazes, especially the new ‘Egyptian Blue’ pigment, that mimicked this colour well.
With regards to items and styles, anklets, bracelets, bangles, and diadems were all worn, as was the broad beaded collar, known as a wesekh, which would remain popular until the end of the classical Egyptian period. Gold amulets became larger and more abundant.
Middle Kingdom Jewellery: 2055 – 1786 BC
Egypt flourished during this era and The Middle Kingdom saw the height of gold working in ancient Egypt. These techniques included repousse, granulation, chasing, and various types of enamelling. The use of silver also increased.
Around 2000 BC is when finger rings started to emerge. These often featured stone, or faience scarab beetles, with the reverse carved with a seal. These were attached with wire, and would swivel, allowing for the seal to be used.
The scarab beetle was a particularly popular motif as they believed it symbolised eternal life. Other favourite motifs were the Eye of Horus, reef knots, and serpents but the use of cobras and vultures was reserved solely for the Pharaoh.
Colour had many symbolic meanings in ancient Egypt; red stood for blood, thus showing life and energy, green was for new growth and resurrection, and blue was for the sky. A favourite Egyptian colour scheme was red, light blue-green, and dark blue; with these hues generally represented by carnelian, turquoise, and lapis lazuli, respectively. This combination was also prevalent in cloisonné inlay jewellery.
The occurrence of turquoise increased greatly during the Middle Kingdom, presumably in tandem with renewed exploitation of the mines at Serabit el-Khadim. Purple amethyst was also popular while glass was used in some 18th dynasty royal and elite jewellery, such as King Tutankhamun’s inlaid mummy mask.
It is worth noting that as some gemstones, such as lapis lazuli, were largely imported, these are seen less frequently in jewellery created during times of political instability.
New Kingdom Jewellery: 1576 – 1085 BC
Jewellery in this era largely resembles jewellery from the Middle Kingdom in both style and techniques, however, coloured glass was produced in far larger quantities than before, becoming a common substitute for coloured stone beads and inlay.
This era also saw the introduction of the earring and earplug. These were first worn by women but within 200 years, men were wearing them as well. Earrings often took the form of ribbed bands, or hoops of gold soldered together, and earplugs were crafted from glass and faience, some of which required an enlarged hole in the lobe.
There was an increased use in amulets, and deities were common decorative elements in jewellery. Heavy gold collars and hollow gold bangles can be seen depicted in sculptures from the time and finger rings occur in large numbers. Many of these feature gold wire which is wrapped around the band and then passed through the swivelling bezel, becoming a defining feature of New Kingdom rings.
Late Period jewellery: 664-332 BC
The Saite dynasty ruled a reunified Egypt for less than two centuries when, in 525 BC, Egypt became part of the Persian Empire, following the Battle of Pelusium. Alexander the Great eventually defeated the Persian armies, thus conquering Egypt. Whilst there was some continuation from previous ages, we start to see various Hellenistic influences in jewellery at this time as Egypt saw an amalgamation of cultures.
Ptolemaic Era Jewellery: 305-30 BC
After the death of Alexander the Great, Egypt was ruled by a line of Macedonian kings, starting with Ptolomy, and ending with Cleopatra, who famously surrendered Egypt to the armies of Octavian (later Augustus) in 31 BC. At this time, jewellery was lavish and showcased similar motifs with continued Hellenistic influences. Cleopatra was known to have a vast collection of jewels with pearls and emeralds being particularly prized amongst them.
The Egyptian Revival
The ancient Egyptian style is so unique that it comes as no surprise that in the many millennia after these pieces were first created, an Egyptian revival movement began. These pieces can be seen dating back to the 19th century, but it was only after the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb that this aesthetic saw a global boom.
Jewellery houses such as Cartier led the way with an assortment of jewels and accessories that brought Egyptian colours and motifs to a new audience. In particular the use of the winged scarab is perhaps the most recognisable image to come out of this revival.
Berganza’s Egyptian jewels
Visit our showroom today where you can view our selection of both original ancient Egyptian jewellery, and historic Egyptian revival jewellery.
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