Vintage diamond and ruby ring by Sterlé. Set centrally with one cushion shape old mine diamond in an open back rubover setting with a weight of 1.45 carats, encircled by fourteen tapered calibré cut natural unenhanced rubies in open back rubover channel settings with a combined weight of 1.10 carats, highlighted with six round old cut natural unenhanced rubies in open back claw settings with a combined weight of 0.20 carats and six round old cut diamonds in open back claw settings with a combined weight of 0.20 carats. The total approximate diamond weight is 1.65 carats and the total approximate ruby weight is 1.30 carats, to a bombé shaped cluster featuring a central coronet cluster, encircled by openwork chevron detailing and further surrounded by a fringe composed of a multitude of fine articulated gold chain sections, flanked by broad trumpeting shoulders which taper through to a D-shape shank with rope twist pattern throughout. Marked 18 carat yellow gold and platinum, signed 'STERLE PARIS', numbered '9807', French, circa 1950.

This ring has been assessed by our in-house gemmologists:

The rubies are most likely to be from the old Burmese mines.

Established in 1934, Pierre Sterlé started producing pieces for some of Paris's finest jewellery maisons, including Boucheron and Chaumet. By the early 1940's, Sterlé started creating pieces for individuals, and in 1945 he opened his premises on 43 Avenue de l’Opéra near Place Vendôme.

Closely allying himself with Paris’ haute couturiers and benefiting from their shared clientele, Sterlé’s creations earned him a lasting reputation as the “High Jewellery Couturier”.

One of Sterlé’s signatures was ‘cheveux d’ange’, or ‘angel’s hair’, a technique involving the weaving and braiding of gold wire into short sections of dense chain to form articulated fringes on his jewels, which he developed in 1957, and is featured in this striking ring.

Considered one of the most original and revolutionary jewellers of his time, Sterlé's visionary pieces are known for being technically advanced and full of movement.

In mid-1970's, the Sterlé boutique closed and the business was sold to Chaumet, where he continued to work as an in-house designer.

This ring is in excellent condition.