Knowledge
With its stunning monochrome hues, onyx has been adored for millennia. From its origins in ancient civilisations to its 20th century dramatic appeal, onyx has taken on a myriad of meanings and continues to be much sought after today.
Gemstones
Ancient Beginnings
Onyx is an opaque black variety of polycrystalline chalcedony quartz and whilst most onyx comes from Brazil, it can be found in any chalcedony producing source. It has a very fine, smooth texture ideal for carving and for this reason, onyx has been used for thousands of years to make figurines of gods and heroes and was used in ceremonies and burials.
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Some onyx also displays white bands or ribbons against a black background. If the layers are even, this type of onyx can be carved into cameos, producing a contrasting white relief over black. This banded onyx was very popular with the ancient Greeks and Romans who used them in seal rings.
Onyx was used to create beads, with rosary beads crafted from black onyx being particularly prized as they were thought to contain medicinal benefits, including the healing of wounds and successful childbirth.
Mourning Jewellery
In more recent history, black onyx became popular in Victorian times and was used in necklaces, rings and earrings. This popularity is attributed to their mourning rituals, in which those who had lost loved ones could only wear the colour black.
Following the death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s mourning played an important part in the fashion for black clothes and jewellery throughout the mid-Victorian period, both in mourning dress and also in everyday wear. Onyx, as well as black enamel were both commonly seen in this type of jewellery.
A Fashionable Gem
In the 1920s and 30s, onyx was again in vogue but for a very different reason. It provided a striking contrast when paired with diamonds or rock crystal and exuded elegance in Art Deco designs. Onyx’s use in fine jewellery created an aura of both drama and opulence with its midnight black background beautifully offsetting the intense sparkle of diamonds, or the vivid colours of gemstones. The fact that onyx can be cut into almost any shape makes it ideal for statement Deco pieces, particularly when a flat geometric form is required in the design.
Our collection features onyx rings, some dating back to ancient times, with incredibly crafted seals, right through to incredible Art Deco onyx jewels.
A versatile stone, onyx has also featured prominently in preeminent designs by renowned jewellery houses, including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Mauboussin, some of which can be viewed amongst our collection of signed jewellery. Visit the Berganza showroom to view onyx jewellery in all its forms!
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Kashmir Sapphires
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Zambian Emeralds
Ceylon Sapphires
Burmese Rubies
Onyx is black in colour, and displays bands of most commonly white, or other varying colours.
Onyx is often treated by the use of impregnation or the dying of lighter coloured chalcedony.
Onyx is typically not very expensive, however natural black onyx that is untreated is rare and therefore valuable. The cost of onyx jewellery is also dependent on the piece itself.
