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Knowledge
Seen as an economic ‘golden age’, the 1950s was characterised by a determination to construct and build new wealth. Developments in infrastructure, technological advancements and increased consumer spending led to rising wages and increased consumer spending.
Design Periods
A Golden Age
It was a hugely influential period in history as popular culture went mainstream and teenagers developed a voice, with rock and roll sparking huge parental outrage. James Dean, Elvis Presley, and Marilyn Monroe were popular pin ups. The first polio vaccine was discovered, the pacemaker was invented and synthetic antibiotics were marketed on a wide scale. It was an exciting time of discovery and rebellion, and there was an overall sense of optimism which was reflected in the jewellery. Indeed, the 1950’s are perhaps one of the most vibrant of decades where gemstones and settings are concerned.
£24,000
£34,500
£31,900
£36,000
Trends and Influences
As the austere 1940s were left behind, a new chapter was on the horizon encapsulating affluence and opportunity; after the years of rationing and sobriety, bold colours and luxury were weaving their way back into the world. The broad masculine silhouettes of the 1940s gave way to a more feminine and frivolous look with Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ setting the standard for women’s attire with its narrow waists, puffed skirts and rounded small shoulders.
The forms and attitudes towards jewellery changed accordingly. Icons of style from stage and screen provided endless inspiration with their choice of jewellery. The legendary beauty, Marilyn Monroe broke from tradition with her engagement ring choice – a baguette-set diamond eternity band that was presented to her by Joe DiMaggio in the early 1950s, promoting individuality when it came to jewels.
Naturalism, exoticism, abstraction and conventionalism all coexisted to meet the different tastes of women during the 1950s, in a move away from the uniformity of the war years. Tropical flora and fauna fascinated jewellery designers, and the animal kingdom was another favoured theme. Birds, in particular, became a subject of endless interpretation along with the marine world.
Mid-Century Modernism
Defined by its originality of design, Modernist jewellery was born out of a newly-found freedom of expression that thrived during the 1950s. The bold geometric pieces of the 1940s were replaced by a more sinuous form and designs tended towards a free, light and simple aesthetic. This was seen in the designs of not only jewellery but furniture, sports cars and architecture as well.
Jewellery and Art
It was during this period that artists such as Man Ray, Salvador Dali and Georges Braque began to delve into the world of jewellery, in a move that would reconcile fine art with the applied art of jewellery design. In turn, this would lead to a revival of individual craftsmanship and the re-emergence of the artisan jeweller during the 1950s and 60s. With individuality prized, jewellers were granted the creative freedom to experiment with shape, form and texture.
Technological advancements and the dawn of space exploration led to futuristic designs appearing in jewellery and across the wider decorative arts, further reinforcing the vogue for unusual gemstone combinations and unconventional forms. The use of abstract sprays of diamonds in mixed cuts, starbursts and ‘atomic’ shapes can be seen decorating jewellery throughout this period.
Jewellery for Every Occasion
Precious gems came back on a large scale with diamonds generally being the gemstone par excellence, with rubies, emeralds and sapphires adding vitality to many creations. Another characteristic of the 1950s was a return to the differentiation between daytime jewellery and evening jewels.
Day and Night Jewels
Day jewels typically consisted of gold necklaces and bracelets with woven textures, twisted metalwork and lace motifs. Amethyst, turquoise, and coral were the favoured coloured gemstones while cultured pearls were gaining acceptance as day wear. Textured gold dominated this decade with florentine finishes, foxtail chain, twisted rope, braided wire, mesh, reeding, fluting and piercing all seen in abundance.
Evening pieces would be in the form of opulent parures of diamonds and coloured gems, with platinum, white gold and palladium as the metals of choice. Some earrings were even convertible, allowing the wearer to sport a more simple look during the day, with an additional section which could be hooked on to create a bold, eye-catching look in the evening.
Cocktail jewels
Cocktail jewellery was plentiful, with large heavy weight designs in yellow gold being hugely popular. Animals, stone set with bright, beautiful, coloured gemstone cabochons found their way into the popular conscience. Bigger rings in particular were in fashion, with raised curved designs and mixed metals.
Many earrings followed the shape of the earlobe, and fabulous cluster designs with a mix of stone cuts exuded Hollywood glamour. Often earrings would be fitted with an articulated pendant or lavish cascade which would flow beautifully with movement.
Berganza’s 1950’s Jewellery
While the jewellery of the 1950s may not offer the radical innovations in form or chromatic use of stones, its jewellery trends remain highly recognisable, with movement and light their most celebrated characteristics. Explore Berganza’s collection of 1950s jewellery, from stunning diamond day to night earrings, elegant engagement rings and cocktail rings with an array of gemstones. Visit our Hatton Garden showroom or view our entire collection online.
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