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The jewellery trends of the 1970s were as diverse as the cultural movements that inspired them. The bohemian influence, a carryover from the late 1960s, championed a free-spirited aesthetic and powerful social transitions such as the feminist and hippie movements gave rise to the slogan, ‘flower power’. These redefining concepts were beautifully echoed in the jewellery designs of the time which went against the norms of the establishment.
Design Periods
The Golden Age of Jewellery
The 1970s witnessed significant innovations in jewellery design and materials. Yellow gold experienced a resurgence, breaking the dominance of white gold and platinum from previous decades. It quickly became the preferred choice of precious metal in this era as it was distinctive and also practical, as gold prices were very low post 1971 due to President Nixon dissolving the gold standard in the US.This warm-toned metal became synonymous with the luxurious aesthetics of the time, earning the era its nickname: ‘The Golden Age of Jewellery.’
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Gemstones
Natural gemstones gained renewed popularity, particularly uncut or minimally treated stones. This trend aligned with the broader cultural fascination with authenticity and a connection to the earth. Advances in synthetic gemstone technology also made lab-created rubies, emeralds, and sapphires more accessible, although natural stones remained highly prized and remain the superior option to this day.
Cocktail rings emerged, with oversized designs and colourful large gemstones. These rings, featuring stones like amethyst, citrine, and tourmaline, symbolised the era’s penchant for drama and opulence. Other movements of the era were characterised by more eclectic designs featuring natural stones like turquoise, amber, and coral, embodying a free-spirited approach to jewellery.
Influences
Celebrity Culture
Celebrity culture played a pivotal role in shaping jewellery trends during the 1970s. Elizabeth Taylor’s iconic collection of bold gemstone pieces continued to inspire, while Bianca Jagger’s minimalist wedding suit paired with a chic gold necklace set a precedent for contemporary bridal jewellery.
Simultaneously, glam rock took the fashion world by storm. Icons such as David Bowie and T. Rex’s Marc Bolan introduced bold, unconventional styles that encouraged daring jewellery choices. Oversized, asymmetrical earrings, chunky chains, and metallic finishes became hallmarks of the era. The aesthetic was theatrical and exaggerated, often incorporating futuristic elements such as chrome, mirrored surfaces, and unconventional materials.
The rise of disco culture in the mid-to-late 1970s added another layer of opulence to jewellery design. Inspired by the glitz of Studio 54 and the extravagant nightlife scene, disco fashion was all about excess. Glittering gold chains, diamond chokers, and oversized cocktail rings dominated the dance floors, embodying the exuberance and glamour of the era. Jewellery was designed to catch the light and stand out, with shimmering gemstones and bold, sculptural designs making a statement under the disco ball.
Media and Technology
The influence of popular media was equally significant. Films like Saturday Night Fever (1977) and TV shows such as Charlie’s Angels showcased statement gold chains and dazzling accessories, reinforcing their desirability. The British royal family also played a role; Princess Margaret and Queen Elizabeth II continued to dazzle with their exquisite jewellery collections, blending vintage and contemporary styles for formal occasions.
The 1970s introduced new technological advancements and cultural trends that left a lasting impact on jewellery design. Mood rings, launched in 1975, became a cultural phenomenon, combining novelty with the era’s fascination with self-expression. These rings, which changed colour based on the wearer’s body temperature, were playful and symbolic, reflecting the decade’s experimental spirit.
Types of Jewellery
To accompany the fashion for flares, bold prints, and fringing, jewellers created similarly adventurous and trend-setting jewellery. In the 1970’s women began buying more and more jewellery for themselves and jewellers catered for these fashion conscious women by making more mid-priced gemstone based jewellery.
Unisex jewellery gained traction, reflecting the growing acceptance of androgynous fashion. Simple gold chains, leather cuffs, and sleek signet rings became popular among both men and women, further breaking traditional gender norms. The jewellery of the 1970s reflected a shift toward inclusivity and self-expression, making pieces more versatile and personal.
Bold rings were especially popular during this period, such as clusters of gemstones with jagged edges, created by marquise cuts of stones and wirework claw settings. Baguette cut diamond surrounds also created an impressive and striking look; ballerina cluster rings are particularly fabulous examples, formed of undulating channel settings encircling a precious central gemstone.
Layering became another popular trend, with necklaces and bracelets stacked in abundance, reflecting the bohemian ethos of freedom. Textured metals, including hammered and matte finishes, added depth and uniqueness to jewellery pieces, further enhancing their artisanal appeal.
The Art Deco revival of the decade brought geometric motifs and bold lines back into vogue, influencing contemporary designs. The emphasis on sustainability and handcrafted pieces, spurred by the environmental movement, has become a cornerstone of jewellery trends since.
Luxury brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari introduced iconic designs, including Bulgari’s iconic snake jewellery and Cartier’s infamous Panthère collection, which became symbols of sophistication and innovation. These high-end jewellery houses embraced the bold aesthetics of the decade, creating statement pieces that have remained timeless.
1970s Jewellery at Berganza
Perhaps the most enduring legacy of 1970s jewellery is its celebration of bold personal expression. The decade’s pieces reflected individuality, creativity, and a rejection of convention, paving the way for the diverse and eclectic styles seen in today’s market. The layering of jewellery, oversized statement pieces, and incorporation of natural gemstones remain popular in modern fashion, proving that the spirit of the 1970s is still very much alive.
Berganza offers an extraordinary collection of authentic 1970s jewellery, each piece embodying the era’s cultural dynamism and artistic ingenuity. From bold yellow gold cocktail rings to fabulous engagement rings,explore these iconic treasures on our website or book an appointment to experience their charm in person—let the spirit of the ’70s inspire your style!
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