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The Art Nouveau period is wedged between the ornate Victorian designs of the 19th century and the signature garland designs of the Edwardian period. During this movement designers rebelled against the norm and created daring pieces inspired by nature and the sensuousness of the human form. Unusual creations emerged depicting dragonflies and moths in flight, sprays of flowers, branches and vines adorned with leaves and erotic female figures all paying homage to naturalism. Goldsmiths decorated these pieces with an array of gemstones including natural pearl, moonstone, opal, sapphire and diamonds further enhancing them with bright vivid enamels.
Plique-à-jour enamel work was favoured during this time as it provided colour, diversity and light to intricately carved designs bringing life to each piece. This method of enamelling is similar to stained glass windows where the enamel has no backing and is held in place by a metal surrounding. Pieces which included this type of enamelling were viewed as wearable art forms.
The signature theme running throughout the Art Nouveau movement was the free flowing line. These melodious lines are seen in the weaving of plant stems, the arcs of wings, a woman’s flowing hair and in feminine curves. The collection of ancient, antique and vintage jewellery at Berganza includes a selection of rare pieces from the Art Nouveau period. Visit Berganza today and purchase your very own piece of wearable art.
