Kutchinsky

One of the most celebrated British jewellers of the late 20th century, Kutchinsky dates its origins back to the 19th century. The firm was founded in 1893 in the East End of London by Hirsch Kutchinsky and his family, including son, Morris, who had arrived in England after fleeing persecution from their native Poland where they had been jewellers to the court of Ludwig II of Bavaria.

In 1930, Morris was joined in the family business by his sons Joseph, b.1914 and Solomon, with Joseph going on to head up the firm throughout most of the twentieth century. Trained in different aspects of the family business, from quality craftsmanship to customer service and even diamond polishing, Kutchinsky thrived under his leadership. It is possible that Kutchinsky also moved to Black Lion Yard in Whitechapel, home to a large Jewish community and known as the ‘Hatton Garden of the East End’.

Following the end of World War II there was a celebration of the end of restrictions and increased availability of luxury items and Kutchinsky’s glamorous and exuberant styles were the perfect antidote to the war years. In 1958, the increasing success of the business and the beginnings of the decline of the East End set the stage for Joseph to move Kutchinsky  to 73 Brompton Road in the prestigious area of Knightsbridge. 

From 1960 until 1991, the main workshop used by Kutchinskey was Sannit and Stein, who were located in Denman Street, London. During this time, Kutchinsky exhibited at the 1961 International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery 1890-1961 at the Goldsmiths Hall. This exhibition shone a spotlight on jewellery as ‘art’ and further revolutionised jewellery design. 

Throughout the 1960s, 70s and 80s, Kutchinsky’s jewellery stood out amongst others, as they became one of the most notable British brands of the day. It is these pieces which remain highly collectible, their bold style having become synonymous with the name ‘Kutchinsky’. Joseph’s sons, Roger and Paul later took over the business in 1989, which continued to be a family run firm until 1991 when it was sold to Moussaieff Jewellers Ltd. 

Signature Aesthetic

Following the end of the war, the creation of the whimsical and colourful designs produced under the watchful eye of Joseph put Kutchinsky on the map. Of particular note are their animal brooches. These animals were much less naturalistically rendered, perhaps inspired by cartoons, which were becoming increasingly popular, such as those produced  by Walt Disney. The trend carried on throughout the 1950s, 60s and 70s. Ever fun and easy to wear, their animal brooches are a masterpiece of design.

Also known for their architectural and bold structural forms, large and lavish cocktail designs are amongst some of Kutchinsky’s finest works. Twisted gold wires, bark effects, braids, elaborate carvings and beadwork are just some of the textures which decorate these exuberant pieces. 

Jewellery of all types featured an abundance of precious gems, including emeralds, rubies and diamonds; marquise cuts, baguette cuts and brilliant cuts can all be seen, often pave set throughout Kutchinsky’s pieces, perfectly accentuating the skilled metalwork detailing. Their use of gemstones was similarly bold, and cabochon gems showcased vivid colours and phenomena, from tiger’s eye and turquoise, to lapis lazuli and malachite. Organic gemstones, especially coral, were used prolifically, often offset with monochrome tones of diamond or onyx. 

With a clearly defined aesthetic, Kutchinsky jewellery is recognisable and showcases the incredible craftsmanship of their London workshop. It is unsurprising therefore that their

client base was far reaching, both within the UK and internationally. Notable clients included the likes of Elton John and Elizabeth Taylor, both known for their passion for unique and fine jewels. 

The Kutchinsky Egg

The Argyle Library Egg came about as a result of the fixation Paul Kutchinsky had with the work of Faberge. Made in the De Vroomen Alexander workshop in London, the egg took 7000 hours to create, was crafted from 15kg of 18 carat gold and was set with 24,000 pink diamonds from the Argyle Mining Company. After incredible costs to create this masterpiece, today valued at over £30 million, the onset of the Gulf War meant that a buyer was unable to be found. The business consequently collapsed and was sold to Moussaieff Jewellers, with the egg being placed with the Argyle Mining Company who sold it privately. 

Today, Kutchinsky jewellery has earnt a well deserved place in the history of English craftsmanship and design. Set apart from the mass-produced jewellery that was commonly seen at the time, Kutchinsky embodied the exuberance and joy of the post-war society with their uniquely stunning jewels.