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The 64 year reign of Queen Victoria was a transformative period in British history. A myriad of social, cultural and technological advances reshaped not just the nation but the world far beyond its borders.
Design Periods
Revolutionary innovations in transportation and communication radically altered daily life; the expansion of railways accelerated travel and trade, while the telephone bridged distances with urgent immediacy. The British Empire continued to grow, cementing Britain’s dominance as a global power.
Thomas Edison illuminated lives with the electric bulb. The Lumière brothers set images in motion, giving birth to cinema. Guglielmo Marconi's wireless telegraph connected the farthest corners of the globe and while the secrets of the atom were finally observed by physicists, the secrets of the mind were penetrated by Freud. Amid the dizzying, sometimes overwhelming speed of change, Hoffman felicitously invented the aspirin.
It was from this vibrant and dynamic world that Victorian jewellery emerged, a reflection of its time – opulent, intricate, steeped in the era’s spirit of innovation yet counterbalanced with sentimentality.
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The Romantic Period 1837 – 1860
Few monarchs in British history have had as significant an impact on jewellery as Queen Victoria. The early Victorian era, often called the Romantic Period, earned its name for good reason. The young and vivacious Queen was so deeply and conspicuously in love with her consort, Prince Albert, that she inspired a wave of romantic expression that resonated far and wide.
Jewellery during this time became inextricably bound up with emotion, embodying human connections in ways previously unseen. In an age where rigid social conventions dictated courting etiquette, exchanging tokens of love – most often in the form of jewellery – became a cherished practice.
Sentimental Motifs
Queen Victoria adored jewellery and the many jewels she wore resonated with symbolism. The court, and the nation at large, eagerly mirrored their queen’s unabashedly sentimental taste. In 1839 Prince Albert presented Queen Victoria with an engagement ring in the form of a snake. The coiled serpent, adorned with an emerald, ruby, and diamonds, held its tail in its mouth, forming an unbroken circle—a powerful emblem of the couple's eternal love. This exquisite piece became an instant sensation and serpent themed jewellery gained immense popularity.
Sentimental motifs of love and nature dominated jewellery design, with hearts, flowers and intertwined ribbons evoking the era’s idealised notions of romance and devotion. Turquoise was liberally used in flower jewellery of the Romantic era because of its direct association with the forget-me-not. Gold was the metal of choice, sometimes set with gemstones or blue enamel. For evening wear, gold and jewels reigned supreme, but during the day less expensive ivory, tortoise shell, seed pearl, and coral were deemed more appropriate choices.
Bracelets were arguably the most popular form of jewellery at this time, and embellished buckles and bangles of ‘Algerian Knot’ design were characteristic of this early Victorian period. Matching suites of four or more pieces of jewellery enjoyed popularity.
The Grand Period 1860 – 1885
This was a time of lush, ornate and opulent designs that epitomise the style most of us associate with Victorian jewellery today. This era was defined by exploration, prosperity and endeavour and saw jewellery inspired by history come to the forefront.
Revival Styles
The Victorians were fascinated by the rich treasures of the ancient world. Throughout the 1860s and 1870s, intrepid explorers and archaeologists uncovered countless jewels from long-forgotten civilizations. Techniques such as granulation, once mastered by the ancient Etruscans, enjoyed a remarkable revival. Roman and Greek coins, gem-cut cameos and intaglios, micromosaic pendants and Egyptian scarabs carved from hardstones like carnelian and lapis lazuli became highly sought-after, reflecting the Victorians' deep respect – indeed reverence – for antiquity.
This all-consuming passion for ‘archaeological’ gold jewels coincided with a heightened interest in Renaissance art and architecture, resulting in the creation of vibrant jewellery designs where enamel played as vital a role as gemstones. Jewellers created polychrome enamel and gold pendants, necklaces, brooches and earrings which were frequently set with hardstone cameos and a variety of precious gems or even baroque pearls. These magnificent jewels often took the forms of galleons, mythical beasts, animals and birds, echoing the opulent styles of the 16th and 17th centuries.
Mourning Jewellery
In 1861, the devastating death of Prince Albert plunged the Queen, and indeed the entire nation, into a state of shock and grief. As a result, mourning jewellery surged in popularity. The hair of deceased loved ones was intricately woven into plaited ropes and placed in lockets and brooches. Seed pearls, symbolising tears, and black enamel, representing the loss of a partner or child, became central motifs. For the remainder of her life, Queen Victoria wore black, and it followed that jet and onyx quickly became the gemstones of choice. Within days of Albert’s death, carved jet brooches, necklaces and crosses flooded shops across the country, produced in vast quantities to meet the overwhelming public demand for jewels that emulated those of their bereaved monarch.
Aesthetic Period 1885-1901
The Late Victorian, or Aesthetic Period, emerged during the final decades of Queen Victoria’s reign. It is often seen as a bridge between the grandiose and highly symbolic styles of the earlier Victorian era and the more fluid, organic forms that would later characterise the early 20th century.
Societal Changes
Shifting sensibilities towards conspicuous consumption – due in no small part to Charles Dickens’ unflinching portrayals of the yawning chasm between rich and poor in society – saw elaborate and ornate jewellery gradually fall out of favour. As women increasingly embraced sporting activities like bicycling and golf and began forging their way in the business world, their approach to adornment changed.
Women began to wear less jewellery and smaller versions of it. Bar brooches adorned with a small central motif and understated diamond stud earrings were now considered the epitome of refined taste, replacing the heavy opulence of previous years.
This was an era of economic growth and a burgeoning middle class that possessed the disposable income to afford jewellery like never before. To meet the demand, jewellery was increasingly being made by machines which had been spurred on by the Industrial Revolution. Against this backdrop, craftsmen and their elite consumers began to reject the machine-made in favour of more overtly naturalistic forms.
Jewellery from this time reflects a shift towards more refined, individualistic pieces, directly influenced by the Arts and Crafts movement, the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood, and the growing fascination with Japonisme. Jewellery was celebrated for its uniqueness and craftsmanship, marking a departure from mass production in favour of artistic expression. These pieces were less ostentatious, the curves were soft, the lines spontaneous and the colours subtle.
A Discovery of Diamonds
However, the grandiose impulse didn't entirely fade. The discovery of new diamond mines in South Africa in 1867 revolutionised the market, making diamonds more abundant and accessible than ever before. Combined with advances in diamond cutting, this new availability propelled diamonds to unprecedented levels of popularity. At the same time, coloured gemstones such as rubies, sapphires and opals also gained favour, often paired with diamonds to create striking, vibrant combinations in carved half hoop rings.
Victorian Jewellery at Berganza
The Victorian era continues to be one of the most iconic and cherished periods in the history of jewellery design. With its profound sentimentality, exquisite craftsmanship and artistic innovation, Victorian jewellery remains highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike. The enduring tradition of gifting sentimental jewels, a hallmark of the Victorian period, still resonates today, offering a meaningful way to celebrate love.
Here at Berganza, we take pride in our vast collection of exquisite and authentic Victorian jewellery. Whether you are drawn to the vibrant allure of gemstone rings or the intricate beauty of ornate brooches and pendants, our collection offers an opportunity to own and cherish a truly unique piece of history.
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