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There is something undeniably thrilling about the word ‘Viking’. It conjures images of rugged seafarers and blood-red sails rippling against icy Nordic skies. But the truth about these Norse adventurers is far more nuanced than their plunder-and-pillage reputation suggests.
Design Period
Active between the 8th and 11th centuries, Vikings were not just warriors – they were traders, farmers, ship builders and explorers who left an indelible mark on the world. They bartered furs, ivory, and amber for the gold, silver and luxury goods of Europe, Russia and Asia. Their longships did not merely carry swords and shields; they ferried cargo and promise, linking disparate worlds through an intricate web of cultural exchange. Exquisite pieces unearthed by archaeologists reveal a society that prized adornment as much as adventure. Yet these pieces weren’t just decorative; they were laden with meaning, worn by men and women alike as potent symbols of status, identity and sentiment.
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Viking Material Culture
Much is known about the forms and evolution of earlier Germanic jewellery from the 3rd to 7th centuries thanks to the custom of burying the deceased with their prized personal belongings. But by the 8th century, this practice had been largely abandoned due to the growing influence of the Church. Thus, evidence of jewellery from this period becomes far more scarce. And yet, from the stray finds and few rich Viking hoards that have survived, it’s clear that a jeweller’s craft flourished.
The earliest Viking jewellery was simple – hammered metal bands twisted into rings or necklaces. Though seemingly basic, these pieces were a marvel of craftsmanship, especially given the rudimentary tools available at the time. During the Viking period, there was a striking shift from the use of gold to the use of silver, which reigned supreme as the Vikings’ material of choice for luxury goods.
This was largely due to the influx of silver that was being traded – or rather raided – from the Near and Far East. Arabic coins called dirhams were melted down in vast quantities and repurposed into exquisite jewellery. Among the most coveted items of the Viking Age were silver armlets, bestowed by wealthy lords upon loyal warriors to reward their bravery and allegiance. In Viking society, armlets were more than mere adornments – they were statements of power, and the more bands one wore, the higher their status, signalling both financial might and a fearsome reputation.
The idea of jewellery functioning as portable wealth was an important one in Viking society. Jewellery doubled as currency, with rings, armlets, and even brooches sometimes hacked into pieces to pay for goods or services. These marked fragments, known as ‘hack silver’ or ‘hack gold,’ bear the tell-tale nicks of their transactional history – a fascinating aspect of Viking material culture.
Rings
As gold became scarcer, it was reserved for intricate finger rings, gilding, and delicate inlays. Ingeniously practical, these rings were often open-ended to fit any finger, and many featured the sophisticated granulation technique—tiny beads of gold meticulously applied to create intricate designs. Some rings were even adorned with carved images of animals or symbols paying homage to their deities, while others showcased precise geometric patterns and spirals, thought to symbolise life’s winding journey. Each piece held immense cultural and personal significance to its wearer.
There is also evidence to suggest that the exchanging of betrothal rings was practiced to symbolise the bond between two clans. The rarity of gold during the Viking Age meant only the wealthiest, most powerful figures could commission a gold finger ring. With so few surviving examples of gold Viking rings, these pieces are extremely rare and highly sought after.
Pendants
Pendants were also popular in the Viking period and were crafted in a variety of designs. Pendants from this era ranged from simple bronze roundels, while others incorporated rock crystal balls set in a frame of filigree or adorned with silver. Filigree was a metalwork technique mastered by the Vikings that involved the twisting and soldering of fine metal wires into intricate patterns. Many pendants feature barrel shaped suspension loops, usually decorated with spirals, knots and animal heads.
Besides the prominent influence of the natural world on Viking jewellery design, the Vikings were also heavily influenced by mythology and Paganism. The Tree of Life, known as Yggdrasil in Norse mythology, symbolised the interconnections of all things in the cosmos and has been seen decorating a number of pendants. Thor’s Hammer was also a commonplace motif in Viking jewellery design. Otherwise known as ‘Mjolnir’ the hammer was wielded by Thor, the God of thunder and this symbol was often worn in pendant form, believed to offer protection for the wearer.
Brooches
Viking metalwork of the 9th and 10th centuries is distinguished by the increasing size and opulence of brooches. For Viking women, brooches served as essential wardrobe staples, holding garments in place while showcasing the wearer’s wealth and taste.
Openwork lozenge shaped brooches with a raised central rosette and four arms terminating in stylised animal heads were especially popular, as were large disc shaped brooches crafted in silver with intricate, entwined patterns and niello inlay – a technique using a black metal alloy to enhance etched designs. Trefoil brooches, with their overlapping rings and intricate motifs of acanthus leaves, scrolling patterns, and symmetrical animal designs, were another favourite. Even more unusual were brooches shaped like fish, birds, or even human heads, rare finds that speak to the creativity of Viking artisans.
However, brooches were not solely the domain of women; men wore them too. The penannular brooch was an exclusively male accessory that was fastened on the right shoulder with the pin pointed upward to keep the sword arm unencumbered. These brooches were as functional as they were formidable. The designs consisted of an open circle ending with knobs in different forms; facetted, ball-formed or animal heads. Some penannular brooches were so extravagantly large that their true purpose seemed less about fastening garments and more as a display of portable and visible wealth.
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The Legacy of Viking Jewellery
The legacy of Viking jewellery serves as a testament to the depth and complexity of Viking culture. It challenges the one-dimensional portrayal of a people too often reduced to horned-helmet cliches and marauding mayhem by popular imagination. The artistry, symbolism, and craftsmanship woven into these remarkable pieces reveal a civilisation brimming with creativity, spirituality, and a reverence for the natural world.
Viking Jewellery at Berganza
At Berganza, we are honoured to showcase some of the finest Viking jewellery available on the market today, including an exquisite collection of Viking Age gold rings—among the rarest treasures to have survived this passage of time. Fascinated by this extraordinary chapter of history? Visit us in-store or online and discover your very own slice of Viking heritage today.
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